After a long (rerouted) flight, some lost luggage, and a long drive from Milano, we arrived in Siena yesterday. Immediately, I understood why Italians love this city. Unlike many tourist towns, Siena feels lived in. If you leave il Campo and il Duomo, you quickly fall into neighborhood life.

Siena is a city of neighborhoods.  In most Italian cities, people will describe their identity in this order:

1. City (I am Milanese.)
2. Province (I happen to live in Lombardia.)
3. Country (Lombardia happens to be in Italy.)

Here, in Siena, neighborhoods rule.  You are born into a neighborhood.  Sienese babies are baptized twice: once by the Church and once by the contrada.  Even if you move to another neighborhood, you cannot change your contrada affiliation.

This week, we live in la Contrada della Selva.  Selva happens to be in Siena.  Selva also won the 2015 Palio, so we’re pretty badass.

This trip, we’re almost entirely AirBnB’ing.  Our first apartment is amazing.  Not only are we in a cool, Palio-winning neighborhood (a block from il Duomo and two from il Campo), but it is gigantic and beautifully equipped.  (I’ll take pictures and the link to AirBnB later.)

Today, we explored our neighborhood and city. We hiked the steep hills of Selva and the other contrade of Siena.

We romped and breakfasted on il Campo.

We admired il Duomo.

 

 

We shopped while il Bambino napped.  Gelato and spritzes were purchased.

We made gnocchi in our kitchen.

We also secretly relished the fact that there was a winter weather advisory at home.  It was in the 70’s (F) here. It was a wonderful and exuberant day.  Tomorrow, Montepulciano is on our list.

Buena Notte.