It has become our annual tradition to go “Up North” every autumn.  For you non-Michiganders, our “Up North” is the area of the Mitten where your fingers would go.  (In my opinion, the Upper Peninsula is not Up North.  The UP is its own special, wild place.)

Some folks assert you need to cross the 45th parallel before you get there, but that seems negotiable.  Wherever your Up North is, the air seems crisper, the trees seems taller, and the life is just a little slower.  It’s a place to beach, fish, hunt, hike, and unwind.  (While I don’t hunt or fish, I do like beaches, sand dunes, and delicious/local food and drink.)  For us, the Traverse City area is our normal Up North home base.

I stumbled across an apartment rental that was almost too good to be true.  In an old building with high ceilings, we were in the heart of it all.  Plus, il Cane got to tag along too. 

We were blocks from the Bay, and in walking distance from some of our favorite restaurants. 

  
  

We had plans of idyllic hikes through sand dunes.  I imagined sitting on a vineyard deck (specifically, Brys Estate’s amazing deck), post-hike, sipping on a glass of wine and soaking in the vistas.  Unfortunately, Mother Nature had other plans.  We awoke to snow.  In October.  My quick-thinking and meteorology-loving husband scanned the radar maps, and estimated that our best weather was in the Leelanau Peninsula.  Off we went.

Normally, we seem to end up on the other peninsula, Old Mission.  Old Mission’s wine culture is a little better established, and I love Old Mission State Park.  Leelanau has a respectable array of vineyards, a wilder vibe, and better hiking.  Yet again, we were on an unexpected ramble.

We discovered a wonderful brewery, Hop Lot.  Hop Lot’s indoor space was fairly small.  Instead, they want you sitting next to a bonfire or playing yard games, while drinking a delicious IPA.  It was classic Michigan, and we need to go back on a summer night when they offer live music. 

Next, we attempted Leland’s historic Fishtown.  Unfortunately, Mother Nature started pelting us with ice pellets. 

It was fun while it lasted.

Round Three of our Leelanau ramble was a visit to Black Star Farms.  Black Star is a Leelanau institution.  They make solid wine and raclette cheese, and their grounds are beautiful.  While wine tasting, we were delighted to discover that Black Star also has a petting zoo with rescued farm animals.  Bambino loved meeting the goats, pigs, and sheep. 

After a long day (and an exhausting Michigan State vs. Michigan football game), we were ready for some grub.  Our absolute favorite restaurant in TC is Trattoria Stella.  Their food is properly Italian, and the atmosphere is beautiful.  I love their unofficial kid’s menu– which includes the same exceptional ingredients as their adult menu.  (Buttered noodles = bronze plate extruded penne with cultured butter.  I would eat a plate of the stuff.)

However, the chances of Bambino lasting a couple hours at Stella were slim to nil.  Thankfully, Stella’s sister restaurant, The Franklin, was in walking distance.  We sat at a communal table, made new friends, and inhaled plates of macaroni and cheese with smoked duck, chicken pot pie, and a kid’s artisanal hot dog.  The Franklin’s wine list was a pleasant surprise, with good bottles at very reasonable prices.  (The beer list was lovely too.)  We already have plans to revisit on a warmer day and enjoy their roof deck.

On our way home, we wandered, and hit up a few roadside parks and had lunch in Ludington.  Bambino and il Cane dozed in the car, and the adults enjoyed the changing colors from the warmth of the car.

While it wasn’t the weekend we expected, it was beautiful.  We were forced out of our comfortable Up North routine, and were rewarded with new favorite places.  The one thing you can rely on in Michigan is the unpredictable weather.  If you’re willing to roll with punches, life here can be awfully sweet.